Slices of Heaven: Sample Queens diversity at 10 iconic pizza spots
Have you ever noticed that, throughout the years, a slice of pizza has stayed roughly in line with the cost of a subway ride? Granted, New York City’s slew of pie parlors are infinitely more esteemed than the beleaguered MTA. But the correlation speaks volumes to the fact that both—for better or worse—are utterly integral to life in the city. MetroCards grant (relatively) affordable access to any corner of the Big Apple, at any time of day or night, while pizza provides reliable, delectable, uncomplicated and into-the-wee-hours sustenance that everyone enjoys, and anyone can afford.
So it’s no wonder so many purveyors have achieved icon status, from Lombardi’s in Manhattan to Totonno’s in Brooklyn. But does Queens have a pie-dentity all its own? And if so, why shouldn’t it be considered as much of a destination as the other, more frequently adulated boroughs?
“Because of its own diversity, Queens has some of the most interesting pizza style diversity,” said Scott Wiener, the nationally sought-out expert and author, and founder of Scott’s Pizza Tours. “You have old-school slice shops like Dani’s House of Pizza, John’s Pizzeria in Elmhurst and New Park Pizza in Howard Beach, plus Greek pizza at Boston Pizza in Astoria, thin Sicilian at Rizzo’s, coal fired at Sac’s Place, Neo Neapolitan at Milkflower, Neapolitan at Levante and even bodega pizza at Los Amigos.”
And that’s just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to formative pies. In fact, the following 10 eateries—whether totally contemporary or beloved nostalgic throwbacks—have definitely put Queens on the map as a formidable pizza epicenter.
There’s no question, this Bayside idol serves some very important pizza. A true definition of a neighborhood spot, VIPizza has anchored the community since 1959. Granted, it’s changed hands a few times, but has remained in the same location, has maintained the same commitment to quality and even executes the same family recipes used back in the day. Using dough prepared daily on premises and top-tier ingredients (frequently imported from Italy), VIPizza keeps its eyes on the pies, only straying from its source material with garlic knots and a handful of generously stuffed calzones. The pillowy Sicilian squares, however, with their lusciously caramelized edges, are the go-to order here, as are the upside-down slices, an ode to the old-school practice of layering the sauce on top.
Milkflower
A perfect fit in newly hip Astoria, this brother-run establishment proffers wood-fired Neapolitan pies in a space previously occupied by a laundromat. And in lieu of slices, they sell modestly proportioned 12-inch rounds only, sporting elaborately blistered corniciones. Which means there’s extra incentive to order up a bevy of original, cheekily named options, such as the Superfly Snuka (jalapeño, pineapple, speck), the Van Dammer (truffle oil, Brussels sprouts, egg) and the Stunn Dunn (charred onion, garlic chives, scallions), all topped with silky orbs of housemade fior di latte—the Italian name for Milkflower—of course.
New Park Pizzeria
Weiner himself touts New Park as the purveyor of one of the absolute best slices in Queens—and he’s not the only trusted expert to lavish it with praise. Leading ’za authority Adam Kuban, Queens cuisine guru Joe DiStefano and Thrillist, The Infatuation, Daily Meal and more have all preached the gospel of its salt-crusted pies. And that’s only validated New Park’s determination not to fix what ain’t broken. In a winning display of gruff Queens gravitas, the Howard Beach stalwart has stayed the same for 60 years and counting, down to its original brick oven—which, incidentally, produces an admirable char and gloriously molten cheese each time. No wonder Weiner (and others) will solemnly instruct you to order your slice well done.
In defiance of its name, Brothers is currently run by a husband-and-wife team. But there’s still an overwhelming sense of keeping things in the family, considering owner Dennis Koines (a Fresh Meadows native) actually worked here as a delivery boy when he was 17. That loyalty to his former stomping grounds has more than carried over to the locals, who’ve flocked here for 54 years for gold-standard slices, and Sicilians who scoff in the face of lily-gilding by eschewing fussy toppings. In fact, they’ve made a regular of one Alec Baldwin, although possible celeb sightings have proven less of a lure than those pies.
Joining Astoria’s growing bevy of brick oven destinations, Basil keeps its fiery beast cranked up to 800–900°F. And it’s a good thing they have the ability to churn out pies at such an impressive clip. Because not only have neighbors and critics alike kept the ovens humming, a jaw-dropping selection of 37 permutations undoubtedly keeps the pizzaiolos on their toes—constantly shuttling discs of dough lavished with everything from porchetta, arugula and parmesan; to asparagus, shrimp and mussels; to gorgonzola and pear.
You’ll want to roll with a crew at Nick’s, which only slings whole pies, to say nothing of explosive calzones and destination-worthy cannoli. Showered with descriptors like “lovely” and “classy” by Weiner, the Forest Hills eatery—a sibling of square superstar Adrienne’s Pizzabar—illustrates you don’t need a luxe wood-burning oven in order to be world class. Gas is to thank for the cratered, thin-crusted rounds, lovingly anointed with locally procured mozzarella and meats, a brightly acidic sauce and piquant leaves of fresh basil.
Dani's House of Pizza
Be sure to shore up your appetite before tackling Dani’s super-sized slice, which easily overtakes its paper plate. Founded back in 1959 by Albania-born Ramiz Dani, the Kew Gardens landmark is run by his son, who hasn’t changed a note of his dad’s signature sweet sauce (a less sugary alternative is the lauded pesto pie). The corner, Tudor-housed parlor is also ideally calibrated for the city that never sleeps; you can score a floppy triangle, laden with lava flows of melty mozz, as late as 4am. And thank goodness, because the line for one is frequently out the door.
Though it managed to catch the eye of none other than the New York Times (which bestowed it with its coveted Critics’ Pick) this Ridgewood resto—like a number of New York City’s now-iconic parlors—takes some doing to find. Yet a trek through the industrial Queens/Bushwick border, in pursuit of an unmarked door and prize pies piled with cured spicy pork loin, savoy cabbage and goat cheese, and cream-soused stracciatella, is worth every bit of effort. Because like their namesake, Houdini Kitchen Lab makes the impossible seem effortless.
1994–2011 were dark years in Flushing, as that was the period when residents were forced to subsist without 1960s-era Gloria’s. Yet in 2012, Thomas Zaremba—son-in-law of an original owner—helped it rise from the deck-oven-generated ashes. Now, neighbors flock to the shop once again for orange oil-slicked slices, sporting a slim yet crisp crust that somehow maintains its integrity despite copious slatherings of sweet sauce and cheese.
Owner Stephen Menna cut his teeth at the sweltering, custom-made Stefano Ferrara ovens anchored in Brooklyn’s Paulie Gee’s. And he’s now in possession of his own Napoli-crafted showpiece, assembled from volcanic lava ash gathered from Mt. Vesuvius. Not to say he’s grown too big for his britches, because just as at any New York City pizza parlor worth its sauce and mozzarella, he’s brought his family along for the ride. Together, they oversee creations worthy of their tribe’s good name, forged from dough made daily from imported flour, naturally leavened over three days, and topped—on request—with housemade vegan cheese.
Lombardi’s | @lombardis_pizza_nyc
Totonno’s | @totonnospizza
Scott’s Pizza Tours | @scottspizzatours
Dani’s House of Pizza | @danishouseofpizza
John’s Pizzeria | @johnspizzeriaelmhurst
New Park Pizza | @new_park_pizza
Boston Pizza | @bostonpizzagram
Rizzo’s | @rissozastoria
Sac’s Place | @sacsplacerestaurant
Milkflower | @milkflowernyc
Levantes | @levantes_pizza
Los Amigos | @amigosthincrustpizza
VIPizza | @vipizzabayside
Adam Kuban | @akuban
Joe DiStefano | @jodistefanoqns
Brothers Pizza
Basil Brick Oven Pizza
Nick's Pizza
Houdini Kitchen Laboratory | @houdinikitchenlab
Gloria Pizza
Tufino Pizzeria Napoletana
