Crisp on the Outside, Creamy on the Inside

Eating fried dough is one of the most straightforward, pleasing ways to celebrate the holidays, and while the preparation method proves virtually the same across cultures—dip the dough in sizzling oil, enjoy the crisp-on-the-outside, creamy-soft-inside result—there are many, many variations. Here are a few holiday specialties from around the world, and where you can find most of them in Queens. 

ZEPPOLLE OR FRITELLE – ITALY 

In Italy, fritelle is traditionally enjoyed on Christmas Eve, and has many names depending on where it’s made. Fritelle are light and puffy fried doughnuts made from bread dough, no rolling and cutting required. Once pulled from the fryer, they’re rolled in sugar. Chef Lidia Bastianich makes zeppolles with her family every year at her home in Douglaston, and includes her own recipe for them in her book Lidia’s Italy in America. Hers are made with a ricotta, mascarpone and amaretto-based filling. 

STRUFFOLI – ITALY

Struffoli is another classic Italian Christmas dessert: deep-fried dough balls made with orange, lemon zest and limoncello before being dunked in honey, sprinkles and candied fruit and fashioned into a Christmas tree, wreath or pyramid shape. The result is light and fragrant, with a crunchy outside and soft, airy interior. Buon Natale!

Where to find them in Queens:

There are myriad great traditional Italian bakeries around the borough, especially in Astoria, but a few fan favorites are LaGuli Pastry Shop and Joe’s Sicilian Bakery. 

BUÑUELOS – MEXICO AND COLOMBIA

Buñuelos are fluffy fried dough balls topped with honey and dusted with brown cinnamon sugar or a generous portion of powdered sugar. They’re enjoyed not just in Mexico and Colombia, but all throughout Latin America. This treat is a little different depending on where it’s made (for instance, in Colombia they are typically made with cheese) and can even be savory. In Mexico, buñuelos are either round and doughnut-like or large and flat. They are sometimes covered in a light piloncillo syrup.

Where to find them in Queens: 

Try Rico Pan, Seba Seba (they have two additional locations in Jackson Heights and Corona) or Colombia Fama Bakery.

FATTIGMAN COOKIES – SCANDINAVIA 

Fattigman, which means “poor man’s cookies”—are ribbons of dough fried and covered with confectioner’s sugar. Every Scandinavian country has a similar version of this cookie.

Where to find them in Queens: 

Ole & Steen originated in Copenhagen, and now has over 90 cafés and bakeries all over Denmark and England. They make some of their baked goods at a commissary in Maspeth, but you’ll have to schlep to the Union Square flagship or one of their other Manhattan locations to test out their take on this ribbon cookie.

FILHÓS – PORTUGAL

This fried treat is made by stretching the risen dough into sections and then frying them in hot oil. The rectangles are dusted with granulated sugar (or a sugar and cinnamon combination) while still warm. In Portugal, it’s a special dessert eaten not just at Christmas, but any major holiday or celebration like Easter or New Year’s Day.

Where to find them in Queens: 

Since there aren’t any Portuguese-specific bakeries in Queens, you’ll have to travel outside the borough or make your own filhós at home. For related treats, O Lavrador, a Portugeuse restaurant in Jamaica, serves other traditional desserts.