Sourdough's Secret: Time, a Ridgewood pastry chef tips you to the best loaves in Queens
Everyone and their sibling seems to be talking about sourdough these days, but what is it exactly? What sets sourdough apart from other breads?
Well, for starters, there’s the starter: Sourdough is mixed and leavened differently from other breads, which use commercial yeasts.
The starter—a mixture of flour and water, creates the perfect environment for attracting wild yeast from the atmosphere. The yeast consumes sugars from the flour, emits carbon dioxide bubbles and ferments the dough to make it rise.
Commercial yeast requires a shorter fermentation time than sourdough, rendering bread that’s easier and quicker to produce on a commercial scale. Sourdough takes much longer to ferment, but this process is incredibly beneficial to the dough and consumer. The lengthier fermentation time allows the wild yeast to break down more of the gluten strands in the dough, often making it a better choice for folks with gluten sensitivities. It also enhances the bioavailability of B-vitamins, zinc, calcium, magnesium and iron in the bread. Not to mention, it gives your loaf that complex, signature sour taste.
I work as a pastry chef at Gwendolyn’s Corner Shoppe in Ridgewood, where we are ramping up our own bread program, and I’ve been baking my own sourdough loaves at home for the past few years. When it comes to baking, eating or visiting bakeries that produce sourdough, I’m absolutely hooked. While I love making sourdough at home, it’s a two-day process, and I know a lot of us don’t always have that kind of time. Luckily, there are many bakeries right here in Queens churning out fresh-baked sourdough every morning! Read on to find your new favorite local sourdough-stocked bakery.
If you’re looking for a traditional brick-oven Italian sourdough loaf, look no further than Gian Piero. Arguably the best Italian bakery in Queens, this sweet-smelling neighborhood outpost opens early and their seats fill fast. Gian Piero opened in 1995 and has been churning out brick-oven-fired, naturally leavened sourdough ever since. Craving something sweet while you’re picking up bread? Try a Nutella lobster tail, croissant, Danish or cannoli. Any of their traditional Italian cookies will pair perfectly with a hot cappuccino.
New Warsaw Bakery-- Silver Bell Products
New Warsaw Silver Bell Bakery has been bringing Old World rye sourdough to Queens and Brooklyn for generations. Silver Bell has been baking traditional Lithuanian and Polish rye sourdough breads since 1882, and joined with New Warsaw Bakery in 2015 (the packaging on the breads still says Silver Bell, but it’s now produced and distributed by New Warsaw). Even if you haven’t visited their Middle Village storefront, you’ve probably seen their loaves on the shelves of Polish delis and groceries all over the city. Stop by for a traditional farmer’s rye loaf, and if you’ve got a sweet tooth stick around for some rugelach or babka.
Visit La Boulangerie for your French-inspired sourdough fix. La Boulangerie makes a classic white sourdough loaf, available daily. Other recommended varieties: whole wheat, raisin and walnut, all available as whole or half loaves. In addition to their wholesome bread selection, there are classic French pastries aplenty: croissants, Gateau Breton and a crispy raspberry-jam-filled Paille D’Or. If you stay for breakfast or lunch, you can peer through the large window for a prime peek at the bread bakers working their magic!
It’s impossible to talk about bread bakeries in Queens without highlighting Astoria’s Parisi. Established in 1969, it’s one of the oldest Italian bakeries in the area. This traditional bakery serves a plentiful daily rotation of hand-rolled breads, including whole wheat, multigrain, Italian and semolina loaves. Additionally, they have a rotating selection of specialty breads for each day of the week (you can only nab sourdough loaves on Thursday and Saturday mornings). Parisi opens bright and early at 6am, so be sure to get there early to grab a loaf fresh out of the oven.
She Wolf Bakery at Forest Hills Greenmarket
Wanna get your hands on a beloved Brooklyn sourdough in Queens? She Wolf Bakery can be found selling fresh-baked loaves at the Forest Hills Greenmarket (located just beyond the Forest Hills Post Office) every Sunday from 8am to 3pm, year round. Based in Greenpoint, She Wolf Bakery is part of the restaurant group behind Achilles Heel, The Reynard, Marlow & Daughters and Roman’s. All of their breads are naturally leavened with sourdough starter, and baked to perfection with a crackly crust and soft, chewy crumb. The sprouted rye and polenta sourdough are both popular choices.
Gwendolyn’s Corner Shoppe
Gian Piero Bakery | @gianpierobakery
New Warsaw Bakery-- Silver Bell Products
La Boulangerie
Parisi Bakery | @parisibakeryastoria
She Wolf Bakery | @shewolfbakery
Forest Hills Greenmarket
