Greek wine is having a moment, and Astoria is the place to drink it
The natural wine movement has bred a new type of drinker and a new set of rules. We’re not as interested in 100-point ratings as we are in trying new grapes and learning about the people who make our wine. It’s not about exclusivity or snobbishness; it’s about being curious and having fun.
Greece is putting out some of the best versions of the low-intervention, small-batch, chuggable wines we’re all into right now. Acidic yet fruity reds that you can serve chilled? The climate is ideal for growing grapes that strike that balance. Floral rosés that you can take to the park? You should try one from the slopes of Mount Olympus. Tart, orange wines from grapes you’ve never tried? Skin-contact fermentation makes many of the country’s native varieties shine.
Your new favorite wine will probably be from Greece, and Astoria is the place to find it.
Not long ago, it was nearly impossible to find Greek wine in Astoria, even if you knew to look for it. It’s surprising for a neighborhood with Mediterranean cheeses in the grocery stores and tavernas on every corner. Many of those traditional restaurants served wines from Western Europe; a token few Greek bottles came from a handful of corporate winemakers and did very little to show how special Greek wine can be. The same could be said of the neighborhood’s wine shops.
“Some of the most interesting natural and biodynamic wines come from Greece,” says Bruno Hedler, the wine buyer responsible for stocking Wine Stop’s shelves, along with many of the city’s best wine shops. “As a proud Astoria resident for over a decade, I’ve noticed slow but perceptible changes on local shelves. They’re transitioning from ‘Dad’s old-school Greek wines’ into a new wave of high-quality, more interesting ones from small producers.”
Of course, it helps that the larger wine world is moving in that same direction. “Greece has a rugged topography that isn’t conducive to mass production, but is great for mom-and-pop appellations,” says Aris Soultanos, whose natural wine importer/incubator Eklektikon is at the forefront of bringing Greek wine to the U.S. “As tastes have changed, what used to be a disadvantage is now an advantage.” Let Greece’s big, corporate winemakers focus on making “flawless” wines that mimic Western European ones, whether by aging in French oak or adding chemicals. Meanwhile, small growers are embracing the country’s fickle climate and terrain, and their wines are better for it. The Mediterranean sun ripens grapes to their peak, while a nighttime breeze off Greece’s exceptional coastline tempers the heat and helps grapes maintain their acidity, resulting in top-notch versions of expressive, food-friendly wines.
Eklektikon’s entirely Greek portfolio is made up of natural wines from small growers, and their logo on the back of a bottle acts as a seal of approval—you know whatever’s inside is going to be good. “In the beginning it was very hard,” says Soultanos’s business partner Maria Bakalopoulou. The pair faced resistance from Astoria’s old-school Greek restaurants, who had long favored more traditional Old World wines. But as Astoria changes—with younger, more adventurous drinkers moving in—wine lists do, too.
“Just in the last few years, the indigenous Greek grapes exploded, and now we have buyers who want to try everything we bring in,” says Bakalopoulou. “Right now we’re in a historic moment for Greek wine in the U.S.”
With some of New York’s best Greek food and—finally, thankfully—wine, Astoria is an ideal place to get in on the action.
GREEK WINE 101
Grapes To Know
Assyrtiko
It’s the most recognizable and easy-to-find Greek variety in the U.S. “With its elegance, mineral character, bright acidity, and dexterity, Assyrtiko is an all-occasion white that should be mandatory to all newcomers,” says Hedler.
Muscat of Alexandria
This white grape is used to make aromatic white, orange and rosé wines. Hedler’s prediction: “Greek rosé will rock summer 2019.”
Roditis
Native to the northwestern Peloponnese, Roditis is at its best in citrusy orange wines. “It’s starting to show up in interesting vinifications, and skin contact makes it shine,” says Soultanos.
Limnio
Referenced by Aristotle and Homer, Limnio is one of the oldest recorded grapes in human history. It’s used in light, acidic reds that are easy to pair with food.
Vertzami
“We’re the only ones bringing Vertzami into the U.S.,” says Soultanos. “It’s indigenous to an island in the Ionian Sea and makes dark—almost black—wines with deep, fruity aromas.”
Bottles to Try
Santameriana, Sant’Or
“Panagiotis Dimitropoulos has a plot of super-rare Santameriana grapes in Santameri, a village in the northern Peloponnese. He makes two wines from that varietal, a white and an orange. Both of them are out of this world,” Hedler says.
Roseus, Garalis
A blend of Muscat and Limnio, this is a food-friendly, fun-to-drink rosé to bring to summer parties.
Sun Rosé, Kontozisis Organic Vineyards
“From Thessalia in central Greece, Andreas Kontozisis and Aphrodite Tousia make this delicious elegant blend of organic Limniona and Xinomavro grapes,” says Hedler. “They were one of the first growers to get a certification for organic farming in Greece.”
Pleiades, Papras Bio Wines
This orange Roditis is a funky, lemony delight.
Limnio, Garalis
Herby and bright, Limnio has been growing on the island of Lemnos for thousands of years.
Where to Drink
With Hedler in charge of the inventory, Wine Stop is the best place to buy wine in Astoria. They have a huge selection of Greek bottles, plus they deliver.
General manager Constantine Mouzakitis is an enthusiastic champion of Greek natural wine—it comprises Tru’s entire list. They have outdoor seating and a new menu of wine-friendly, Greek small plates.
Order the Terra Ambera, an orange wine made from Muscat of Alexandria, and some appetizers to share.
They have an all-weather patio at the corner of Astoria Park and a handful of great natural wines on their list like the Agiorgitiko from Bairaktaris, a grower in the Peloponnese.
You know it and love it, and so does everyone else, but if you can get a table there are excellent Greek bottles to pair with your whole grilled fish.
Homey and easygoing, Bahari has some of the best food in Astoria. Try Innocent Dove, a 50/50 blend of Xinomavro and Merlot from an organic vineyard in Karditsa.
Wine Stop | @winestopnyc
Eklektikon | @eklektikon
Tru Astoria | @truastoria
Oli-Vine | @oli.vinenyc
Agnanti | @agnantimezenyc
Taverna Kyclades | @tavernakyclades
Bahari | @bahariestiatorio
