It's All Greek at Family-Owned Victory Sweet Shop in Astoria

This month, we're proud to present the Bread & Grains issue—dedicated to all manner of doughs, dosas and baked desserts made in Queens. To coincide with the print issue (you'll be able to pick up a print copy very soon!), every weekday throughout the month of February, we're featuring a different bakery in the borough. Some are old standbys, and some are new and on the rise, but each one reflects the diverse and independent spirit of Queens.

Native New Yorkers are pretty much weaned on bagels, cheesecake and black and white cookies. And—if they grow up in Queens, at least—you can add baklava, koulouria and melomakarona to the mix. Needless to say, Astoria is riddled with Greek bakeries, and Victory has helped pave the streets with filo dough since 1968. Presided over by the Sakalis family, sweet treats are definitely in their blood: Founder George comes from a long line of bakers, and the father of his wife, Antigoni, was head chef at some of the most celebrated hotels in Rhodes, Greece.

At their own shop and adjacent café, all parts of the country get their due: Look for confections like Cypriot-style tulumba (fried, ridged, unleavened rectangles of dough, soaked in thick syrup); and the Athenian nut cake kopenhai, created for the coronation of the Danish prince who became King George I of Greece. For something minutely less sugary, you’ll also find tsourteki bread. The traditional sweet, yeasted loaves are often studded with almonds, but come formed around dyed eggs on Easter, and piped with chocolate for Valentine’s Day.

Victory Sweet Shop | @victorysweetshop