Basking in the Culinary Joys of an East Elmhurst Strip Mall
In a small, nondescript strip mall a mile from LaGuardia Airport, there is a culinary oasis replete with the requisite diversity and family atmosphere that makes Queens so magnetic. With restaurants dishing out cuisines ranging from Greek and French to Chinese-American, the Jackson Heights Shopping Center is an unsung culinary gem of northwestern Queens.
JJ Chan Garden is a case in point. While its fare is decidedly more Americanized than at other Chinese eateries a few miles east, this tableclothed and well-staffed restaurant is the only one of its kind in the neighborhood. JJ Chan’s vast menu encompasses ubiquitous Chinese-American crowd-pleasers such as roast duck and chicken wings as well as soup dumplings, “Cantonese-style” fried noodles and several seafood selections.
A few storefronts away, we can cross Eurasia while staying firmly planted in a New York tradition. Italians were some of the first immigrants to put their distinctive culinary mark on Queens and that influence is still visible throughout the borough. Established in 1964 by three brothers with Sicilian roots, Mr. Bruno’s is a true neighborhood mainstay, selling a variety of pizzas by the slice and by the pie, as well as pastas, antipasti and classic Italian-American entrees.
Cannelle Patisserie has been the draw at Jackson Heights Shopping Center for years. Before founding Cannelle, Jean-Claude Perennou and Gnanasampanthan “Samba” Sabaratnam worked as lead pastry chefs in the Waldorf Astoria. Flaky croissants, traditional pear tarts, Saint Honoré and Paris-Brest cakes, buttery ham-and-baguette sandwiches are on offer. Despite serving pastries that have been singled out as some of New York’s finest by the likes of the New York Times and Eater, an informal atmosphere pervades.
In the autumn of 2018, a new French eatery, this time a bistro, came to the same shopping center. Vincent Caro, who has worked in restaurants since age 14, opened his second restaurant (Sunnyside’s Cote Soleil was his first) in the neighborhood he now calls home. Bistro Eloise’s menu is filled with recognizable French plates such as boeuf Bourguignon, coq au vin and cassoulet, in addition to less-familiar items such as a homemade salmon burger and a sandwich made with merguez.
Coincidentally, the owners of both of Jackson Heights’ French eateries—one long established and one brand new—grew up in Brittany, a region in northwestern France. Breton touches are found at each; Cannelle makes a delicious galette bretonne, a regional butter cake with a dense, crusty texture; and Bistro Eloise serves traditional buckwheat crepes. Brittany is also known for its ciders, a selection of which Caro plans to have in stock by the summer.
Travel to the other side of Europe at Plaka, the neighborhood’s sole Greek restaurant, and one is greeted with the smells of grilling meats and the sounds of cordial conversation.
“This is a family business, and we’re a hardworking family,” says Sylvie Theodoropoulos. “My aunt comes in here every day at 8 in the morning and starts making everything fresh. That’s a lot of love and a lot of dedication.”
Anna and Alex Theodoropoulos, along with their three children, have been serving Greek staples for over 10 years to a loyal base of patrons who have found comfort and community in Plaka’s cozy dining room. It is not uncommon to see families gathering here to celebrate life’s important moments: baptisms, birthdays and religious holidays.
“Many of our customers have been coming here since the beginning,” says Sylvie. “They appreciate the environment we offer and the quality of our ingredients, many of which are imported from Greece.”
The Jackson Heights Shopping Center is located between 30th and 31st Avenues and 75th and 77th Streets in East Elmhurst. It is served by the Q47 bus and offers extensive free parking.
JJ Chan Garden
Cannelle Patisserie | @cannellepatisserie
Cote Soleil | @cote.soleil
Bistro Eloise | @bistroeloisenyc
Plaka
